ANATOMY OF THE GUITAR:
Shown above are the various parts of a standard acoustic guitar.
HEADSTOCK is located at the end of the neck. It houses the MACHINE HEADS or TUNING KEYS which are used to adjust the tension of each string separately in order to raise or lower the pitch. It is usually pitched at a slight angle to compensate for tuning and tension.
Make sure that there are no bug hunks, splits, cracks and that the MACHINE HEADS are securely mounted, all screws in tight. Look closely for any glueing or repair.
TOP
TUNING KEYS are mounted in the headstock. They are used to tune the guitar by raising or lowering the pitch of the string. Good Quality TUNING KEYS are a must for a guitar to stay in tune properly. Most guitars have good tuning keys, and can be easily spotted by comparison. A "good feel", smooth turning action, no rust, securely mounted, no slop or looseness from the TUNING PEGS in the holes. Check to make sure none of the keys are bent, missing or stripped. Most keys will have a little adjustment screw on the end for varying the "turning action." (ie. The way the string winds around the peg..."), Make sure that there are none of these little screws missing.In addition to making sure that the inside gears are not stripped, make sure that the "winding grip" at the end of each tuning key is not stripped as well. Sometimes these are made of plastic, and tend to come loose or unglued and will just rotate around without turning the TUNING PEG.
The TUNING PEGS stick po through the holes in the HEADSTOCK and have a hole in each of them with which the string passes through. The string is then wound around the PEG and adjusted to the proper pitch.
PEGS that are on the RIGHT SIDE of the HEADSTOCK (as it Faces you) are to be strung CLOCKWISE.
PEGS that are on the LEFT SIDE are to be strung COUNTER-CLOCKWISE. As you will see, this just "makes sense" and allows for an "untangled & unconfused" set up.
TOP
THE NUT:
Is found at the end of the NECK where it meets the HEADSTOCK.
As well as helping to keep the strings in alignment down the length of the NECK, it also helps to adjust the height or "ACTION" of the strings. (the distance from the strings to the fingerboard)
The NUT is glued in place and is made of a very hard composite material, or bone. Sometimes the NUT is reffered to as "the bone" for this reason.
Make sure that it does not slip and is glued securely in place. Look close to inspect that the strings have not worn out the GUIDES that are cut into the NUT, and that there is very little space for movement. Make sure it has no cracks or chips in it.
The NUT is very important, but costs very little to replace. If the NUT needs to be replaced, it is best taken to a guitar shop or music store that does repairs. Most times, the GUIDE NOTCHES need to be cut from scratch, and this requires experience.
TOP
THE NECK:
It's the big long thingy you wrap your hand around to form chords and select notes to play. The NECK is usually made from a hard wood such as maple. The FINGERBOARD is then glued to the top.
YOU MUST HAVE A STEEL REINFORCEMENT TRUSS ROD INSIDE THE NECK IF YOU ARE USING STEEL STRINGS!
Most likely this TRUSS ROD will be adjustable to help "true" the correct pitch and angle for best playing, tuning and intonation. With "good intonation" the guitar will be "in tune" anywhere it is played on the NECK. When a guitar is badly out of adjustment, the result may be that chords played at the end of the neck will be horribly out of tune near the top, and vice-versa. It may also result in the inability to properly tune the guitar. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO ADJUST THE NECK REINFORCEMENT TRUSS ROD! This is to be done ONLY BY A QUALIFIED PROFESSIONAL! The resulting action may cause your guitar to be PERMANENTLY DAMAGED, thus rendering it to become "art" which will eventually hang on somebody's wall, or even worse, will be turned into some cheezy wall clock.
The truss rod adjustments are usually made at the end of the neck on the headstock undeneath a coverplate, OR, inside the acoustic guitar, through the hole towards the neck joint.
Check to make sure that the NECK is not warped or bowed. Hold the guitar sideways and look to see if it follows a straight line path perpendicular to the strings. The strings should not be very high off the fingerboard. A little under 1/4" is good action.
Place one finger on fret number one of the LOWEST string and hold it down while pressing down on fret number 15 or so. The string should appear to lightly touch everyfret on the NECK in between the two points, and serves as a "straight edge" guide to detect if there is any bending, bowing, or warpage of the NECK. Do the same test for the middle and outer edge strings.CHECK THE INTONATION:
To check to see if the guitar is "in tune with itself", You will need a good tuner or a good ear and a slight ability to pluck a note or a "Harmonic" on the guitar.
First, get the guitar in tune to proper pitch. A=440 hertz. Start with the lowest string and pluck it open. Then play the same note twelve frets higher. the fretted note should be an exact OCTAVE. Another way to test this without a tuner is to pluck the twelveth fret "HARMONIC". This is done by lightly touching the string with the pad of the finger directly over the 12th metal fret and plucking or picking the string. Listen carefully to the note that the "Harmonic" produces and then fret the note regularly. Both tones should be identical. If the fretted note is lower or higher than the harmonic, then the NECK or BRIDGE may need adjustment if at all possible. Most acoustic guitars do not have "adjustable bridges", and are in a fixed position, so be careful to check the intonation, and that the guitar is properly calibrated. Most guitars that are "out of tune" can be adjusted properly by an experienced person, but a lot of caution should be placed on a guitar that is noticeably "out of tune with itself." This may be a little difficult for a beginner.
TOP
The FINGERBOARD is glued onto the NECK and is normally affixed with BINDING as well. The FINGERBOARD is usually a little denser wood, most often rosewood is used. On the better made guitars you might find Ebony, which is the most dense wood found native in Africa.
Periodically, the neck may require cleaning from the grit and goo of playing, dirt, rust, humidity, sweat, saliva, smoke and whatever. Strings are affected greatly when dirt, rust and corosion sets in. Even your normal dietary intake has an affect on how the strings rust and age. How much acidity, oils, moisture and grime that comes from your body, hands and fingers. A good, reputable string cleaner/conditioner is recomended to preserve the life and tonality of the strings. To clean the gook from the neck, use a very very mild dishsoap detergent solution and a non abrasive scrubby or towel, ONLY DAMPEN, Do Not flood the NECK and FINGERBOARD with water or liquids of any kind. Remember this thing is mainly glued together and water, liquids or chemicals of any sort may cause glue points and joints to weaken or come loose altogether. Immediately wipe off any damp areas while removing the grunge.
Check the binding on both edges of the NECK where the FINGERBOARD meets. Check for cracks, pulling away or "bubbling out", big nicks or chunks missing. Carefully inspect the FINGERBOARD to see where it has worn the most. A good player will wear out a guitar evenly. Most older guitars that are still very playable may have grooves and dug out pits in the FINGERBOARD where most of the chords were played or notes fretted. Care must be taken on the amount of pressure applied when fretting a note, especially if the FINGERBOARD has worn down underneath slightly. You must use your ear and good judgement when determining the playability of a worn guitar.
TOP
The FRETS are metal strips pounded and sometimes glued into the NECK at precise intervals in order to produce the correct tones and pitches. Check the frets carefully to see that there are not any badly worn, flattened, grooved, loose, missing, splintered or bent frets. Every note on all the strings must be played in order to make sure that the frets are good and correct. Often, a fret will get worn down and somewhere along the NECK a note will "buzz" or become "dead." If this is the case, the FRETS may need work, or the NECK may need to be adjusted. The FRETS can sometimes be reshaped and filed back into an acceptable playability. This is sometimes reffered to as "crowned." This temporary fix may last as long as a few years, but just like hard disks in computers... as long as it is used, they will eventually wear out. With the guitar, this is due to the constant pressing and scraping of the steel strings against the Nickel or Steel FRETS.
TOP
The NECK is joined at the body, and usually glued into position at the point called "the neck joint." There are several acoustic guitars that have "bolt-on" NECKS. You will see a metal plate on the back of the guitar where the neck joins the body. There are advantages and disadvantages to both designs. Through experience you will come to understand the differences.
Check the NECK JOINT to make sure that is a solid perfect joint. In the case of a bolt-on neck, check to make sure that the retaining screws are tight and secure on the back. Make sure there aren't any screw heads stripped out from using butterknives instead of a proper screwdriver. check to make sure that there aren't any "shims" or strips placed under the bolt-on neck in an attempt to align it properly or hold it tight to the body.
On the standard GLUE ON NECK, carefully inspect the neck joint for any repairs, glue, flaws in finish or retouching. The NECK JOINT is a crucial area of the guitar. NEVER HOLD THE GUITAR AT THE END OF THE NECK WITH THE WEIGHT OF THE BODY STRESSING THE NECK JOINT. Always try to support the guitar when handling by holding it at the NECK JOINT and the BODY.
TOP
The SOUNDBOARD is the "front face" of the guitar BODY. It usually has a hole in it below the strings where the hand normally strums. Strumming in the middle of the body produces a more richer, fuller tone compared to strumming closer to the BRIDGE or closer to the NECK. The SOUNDBOARD is like the "speaker" of the guitar. As the vibrations from the string are transferred over the bridge to the SOUNDBOARD, the SOUNDBOARD vibrates the air and actually amplifies the sound intensity of the string. The better guitars use Spruce wood for the SOUNDBOARD because it is a strong wood that is not too dense, and vibrates well producing a warm rich tone. Most "run of the mill" affordably cheap acoustics use thin plys and or laminates. They usually sound fine for the "less than the connisseur."
TOP
The SOUNDBOARD is glued onto the curved body and hopefully BINDING is used as well for a good bond as well as a nice appearance. The better guitars will have double and triple binding. This can be viewed as "layers" or "lines" as the BINDINGS are sandwiched together.
Check to make sure that the binding or glueing is perfectly intact all the way around. Look for cracks and splits in the SOUNDBOARD. Inspect around the SOUNDHOLE and where the BRIDGE and TAILPIECE is mounted and glued. When too much tension is on the neck and body (tuned too high) serious problems can result. Not only can the NECK get "bowed or warped", but the SOUNDBOARD can "buldge up" under the tension behind the TAILPIECE and then the TAILPIECE will start to pull up and away from the SOUNDBOARD. I believe that this disheartens me the most. PLEASE KEEP YOUR GUITAR IN PROPER TUNE! Upon long extended periods when the guitar is not played, the strings should be loosened "several twists" down a few steps to help relieve the constant tension on an "idle neck." Scratches do not affect the tone or the playability.
TOP
In the middle of the SOUNDBOARD is the SOUNDHOLE. Not too much on this. The SOUNDHOLE allows the air to vibrate more freely while channeling some of the deeper tones that would otherwise be "lost" or "trapped" inside the body of the guitar. There is a big difference in beating on a solid block of wood, and beating on a hollow box... think about it. (okay, that's enough.)
TOP
Near the end of the BODY is the BRIDGE and/or TAILPIECE.
the strings pass over the BRIDGE which transfers the vibrations to the SOUNDBOARD. On the better BRIDGES and TAILPIECES, the BRIDGE will be adjustable, allowing for fine tuning and intonation setting. The bridge may have a separate adjustment for each string. Most average acoustic guitars do not have adjustable bridges, though it is very welcomed! Most acoustic guitars are built with the "specifications" predetermined, allowing for just basic adjustments, and for the most part, this is fine and normal.
On some TAILPIECES the strings are "fed through" a guide hole in the "SADDLE" where the ball end of the string lodges. Most acoustic guitars have "pegs" that hold the ball end of the string down into holes that are drilled through the TAILPIECE. The pegs should have a slot cut into them and should face the same direction as the string runs up the neck, providing a "little groove" for the string to rest in as it is being pushed and held in the hole. When changing strings, start at the TAILPIECE first, and then run the string up to the HEADSTOCK. Be careful not to push hard or jam the pegs into the holes. Snug should be plenty. (just like your oil filter.)
BUT HOW DO I GET THE PEGS OUT OF THE TAILPIECE WITHOUT USING THE PLIERS OR A SCREWDRIVER...(or your teeth!)
The "Guitar Players Secret Weapon" for this will be found on the end of one of those silly looking "Guitar String Crank", commonly called a "Sidewinder." they can be found at most stores for less than 2 bucks. If you look at the end of the "crank head", you will notice a little "cut out slot" made for slipping under the peg, giving you a little bit of leverage and protection against scratches and gouges. There,
now you're "clued in!"
TOP
Oh, yeah... one more thing... The PICK GUARD is supposed to shield the soundboard (front) of the guitar from the most offensive of players. It is not recommended that you inhale the fumes emmitted from this substance when lighting the guitar on fire.
TOP
CHORD GRID DIAGRAM:
Shown above is the common "grid" that is used for notation of guitar chords.
String number 6 (low E) is on the left side, and string number 1 (high E) is on the right side.This is what the guitar would look like if you were to hold the neck FACING YOU. (right hand tuning) This is exactly inverse for left handed guitarist and guitars.
The numbers inside the little circles represent what FINGERS you are to use when forming the chord.
There may be numbers to the left or right of the grid which represent what FRET POSITION the chord STARTS on. (or wherever it may be notated.)
The "X" represents strings that are NOT to be played.
The "O" represents a string that is to be played open. (unfretted)
More advanced chords require a finger to cover notes on more than one string. Guitar GRIDS are commonly found above the staves in written sheet music and are a great way to learn many different chords and possibilities. I recommend getting a Chord Book of sorts to have for practice and reference.All chords on this site may be downloaded for off-line viewing as well as the video cyber lessons!
TOP
THE HAND:
On a standard acoustic guitar that is set up and strung for right handed playing, the LEFT HAND is used to fret the notes and chords played on the guitar, while the RIGHT HAND is used for strumming and plucking (and whatever).
The INDEX FINGER is NUMBER ONE
The MIDDLE FINGER is NUMBER TWO
The RING FINGER is NUMBER THREE
The PINKY FINGER is NUMBER FOUR
Isn't it funny, that as a society, we still do not have "good names" distincly identifying each finger properly with out using scientific or medical terminology? ("pinky finger?")... Anyway,The thumb is not normally used in fretting. It's job is to be the "fulcrum" to support the hand positions when the fingers are held and pressed against the neck. The thumb will shift positions for each chord, sometimes slightly, sometimes greatly. Not very often is the thumb "wrapped" around the neck, more often playing a chord on a comfortable neck in a comfortable position, the web between the thumb and the first finger is used with the thumb sticking up. The more advanced chords will use the pad of the thumb to help "pinch" and hold the chord. All this "thumb action" will come in good time with little experience. Be Patient, get through the hot burning callouses first!
There is a lot to be said about "Carpal Tunnel Syndrome" which is a condition that develops from intense repeated actions commonly found in typist and professional secretaries. This can be very painful and quite dibilitating, and the bummer part about it is that the doctors are still unskilled at fixing or curing the problem short of risky surgey involving stuff like cutting nerves and/or tendons and re-attaching them at different points. Weird, huh?... so be cool now that you are enlightened. I think the safest bet to building up speed, power and endurance on the fingerboard is to PLAY THE NOTES ON THE FINGERBOARD as opposed to all the trick little finger and wrist muscle exercising devices out there. Not only will this be all the exercise you will need, but you will be "Programming" your hand, wrist and fingers to your brain and coordination reflexes and dexterity. Once again, think about it... If you wanna get good at the guitar, practice the guitar... If you wanna get good a squeezing a ball of putty, well... there you have it.... although, I admit, "it feels good."
One more thing is, it might be a good idea to wash and dry your hands before playing your guitar for all the obvious reasons. It is also a good habit to wipe off the strings after you have finished playing.
TOP
GUITAR TABLATURE:
TAB - picture it...
The above diagram represents the neck of the guitar sideways with the big 6th string (low E) on the bottom and the thin 1st string (high E) on the top. By the way, the strings NOTES are as follows from high to low in pitch:
1st string - E (high) - above "middle C"
2nd string - B - below "middle C"
3rd string - G - below "middle C"
4th string - D - below "middle C"
5th string - A
6th string - E (low)
The numbers on the TABLATURE GRID represent the FRET NUMBER that is to be played ON THAT STRING.The example on the left side of the TAB GRID is a short scale in the key of "A". It starts on the 5th fret on the Sixth string... then the 7th. Next it goes up a string to the 4th fret on the 5th string...the 5th, the 7th, and so on... These notes are to be played in a succesion.
The right side of the TAB GRID shows a "C CHORD". Notice that all of the notes are "stacked up." This means they are all to be played all at once, and not in succesion. The "O" represents an "open" string is to be played.
As in standard music notation, there are many different symbols to represent notes, technique, and how the guitar is to be played in TAB as well. These will become more and more familiar as you progress. There is not a lot of in-depth coverage of TAB in VIDEO GUITAR LESSONS, however, there are links to great guitar sites where the advanced student can go to learn more about TABLATURE or "TAB" as it is reffered to.
Tab has not been around a long time compared to conventional musical instruments and seemed to gain it's popularity in the 1980's. It might make one wonder what TAB for a piano or clarinet might look like.... TAB - picture it...
Not lots of guitar players know as much as you might think they do... they just pick up the guitar and start whacking away, and usually end up doing pretty good... I mean, after all, not only is america in love with the guitar, but it falls into the catagory of "Art".. which is to be experienced and not measured. I have met plenty of people who do not have a so-called "Musical Bone" in their body, but end up being rather proficient and accomplished guitarist through diligence and patience, hard work and devotion. Just because you are not Jimi Hendrix reincarnated does not mean playing the guitar on any level can't fill your life with all kinds of enjoyments. It will.And likewise, having the impressive ability to whip off 64th notes at a blaring tempo does not make one a good musician.
You will need the "REAL PLAYER" to experience the "one on one" VIDEO CYBER LESSONS.The REAL PLAYER is a FREE plug in for your Web Browser and it allows for immediate real time audio & video streaming through the Internet. No longer do you have to wait for a file to download and take up precious space on your hard drive in order to view it. With the REAL PLAYER you will get it right away in about 60 seconds or faster! It takes about 5 minutes to download and completely self installs in 45 seconds!
Click the link and follow the directions on their website to get the latest updated version of the FREE REAL PLAYER.
TOP
Yes, in case you are wondering... That IS my hand and 1982 Gibson Les Paul Custom "Spotlight Special" pictured above, as well as every graphic and every word. Thanks alot, just what the world needs... another guitar player...
TOP
ANATOMY OF THE GUITAR:
Shown above are the various parts of a standard acoustic guitar.
HEADSTOCK is located at the end of the neck. It houses the MACHINE HEADS or TUNING KEYS which are used to adjust the tension of each string separately in order to raise or lower the pitch. It is usually pitched at a slight angle to compensate for tuning and tension.
Make sure that there are no bug hunks, splits, cracks and that the MACHINE HEADS are securely mounted, all screws in tight. Look closely for any glueing or repair.
TOP
TUNING KEYS are mounted in the headstock. They are used to tune the guitar by raising or lowering the pitch of the string. Good Quality TUNING KEYS are a must for a guitar to stay in tune properly. Most guitars have good tuning keys, and can be easily spotted by comparison. A "good feel", smooth turning action, no rust, securely mounted, no slop or looseness from the TUNING PEGS in the holes. Check to make sure none of the keys are bent, missing or stripped. Most keys will have a little adjustment screw on the end for varying the "turning action." (ie. The way the string winds around the peg..."), Make sure that there are none of these little screws missing.In addition to making sure that the inside gears are not stripped, make sure that the "winding grip" at the end of each tuning key is not stripped as well. Sometimes these are made of plastic, and tend to come loose or unglued and will just rotate around without turning the TUNING PEG.
The TUNING PEGS stick po through the holes in the HEADSTOCK and have a hole in each of them with which the string passes through. The string is then wound around the PEG and adjusted to the proper pitch.
PEGS that are on the RIGHT SIDE of the HEADSTOCK (as it Faces you) are to be strung CLOCKWISE.
PEGS that are on the LEFT SIDE are to be strung COUNTER-CLOCKWISE. As you will see, this just "makes sense" and allows for an "untangled & unconfused" set up.
TOP
THE NUT:
Is found at the end of the NECK where it meets the HEADSTOCK.
As well as helping to keep the strings in alignment down the length of the NECK, it also helps to adjust the height or "ACTION" of the strings. (the distance from the strings to the fingerboard)
The NUT is glued in place and is made of a very hard composite material, or bone. Sometimes the NUT is reffered to as "the bone" for this reason.
Make sure that it does not slip and is glued securely in place. Look close to inspect that the strings have not worn out the GUIDES that are cut into the NUT, and that there is very little space for movement. Make sure it has no cracks or chips in it.
The NUT is very important, but costs very little to replace. If the NUT needs to be replaced, it is best taken to a guitar shop or music store that does repairs. Most times, the GUIDE NOTCHES need to be cut from scratch, and this requires experience.
TOP
THE NECK:
It's the big long thingy you wrap your hand around to form chords and select notes to play. The NECK is usually made from a hard wood such as maple. The FINGERBOARD is then glued to the top.
YOU MUST HAVE A STEEL REINFORCEMENT TRUSS ROD INSIDE THE NECK IF YOU ARE USING STEEL STRINGS!
Most likely this TRUSS ROD will be adjustable to help "true" the correct pitch and angle for best playing, tuning and intonation. With "good intonation" the guitar will be "in tune" anywhere it is played on the NECK. When a guitar is badly out of adjustment, the result may be that chords played at the end of the neck will be horribly out of tune near the top, and vice-versa. It may also result in the inability to properly tune the guitar. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO ADJUST THE NECK REINFORCEMENT TRUSS ROD! This is to be done ONLY BY A QUALIFIED PROFESSIONAL! The resulting action may cause your guitar to be PERMANENTLY DAMAGED, thus rendering it to become "art" which will eventually hang on somebody's wall, or even worse, will be turned into some cheezy wall clock.
The truss rod adjustments are usually made at the end of the neck on the headstock undeneath a coverplate, OR, inside the acoustic guitar, through the hole towards the neck joint.
Check to make sure that the NECK is not warped or bowed. Hold the guitar sideways and look to see if it follows a straight line path perpendicular to the strings. The strings should not be very high off the fingerboard. A little under 1/4" is good action.
Place one finger on fret number one of the LOWEST string and hold it down while pressing down on fret number 15 or so. The string should appear to lightly touch everyfret on the NECK in between the two points, and serves as a "straight edge" guide to detect if there is any bending, bowing, or warpage of the NECK. Do the same test for the middle and outer edge strings.CHECK THE INTONATION:
To check to see if the guitar is "in tune with itself", You will need a good tuner or a good ear and a slight ability to pluck a note or a "Harmonic" on the guitar.
First, get the guitar in tune to proper pitch. A=440 hertz. Start with the lowest string and pluck it open. Then play the same note twelve frets higher. the fretted note should be an exact OCTAVE. Another way to test this without a tuner is to pluck the twelveth fret "HARMONIC". This is done by lightly touching the string with the pad of the finger directly over the 12th metal fret and plucking or picking the string. Listen carefully to the note that the "Harmonic" produces and then fret the note regularly. Both tones should be identical. If the fretted note is lower or higher than the harmonic, then the NECK or BRIDGE may need adjustment if at all possible. Most acoustic guitars do not have "adjustable bridges", and are in a fixed position, so be careful to check the intonation, and that the guitar is properly calibrated. Most guitars that are "out of tune" can be adjusted properly by an experienced person, but a lot of caution should be placed on a guitar that is noticeably "out of tune with itself." This may be a little difficult for a beginner.
TOP
The FINGERBOARD is glued onto the NECK and is normally affixed with BINDING as well. The FINGERBOARD is usually a little denser wood, most often rosewood is used. On the better made guitars you might find Ebony, which is the most dense wood found native in Africa.
Periodically, the neck may require cleaning from the grit and goo of playing, dirt, rust, humidity, sweat, saliva, smoke and whatever. Strings are affected greatly when dirt, rust and corosion sets in. Even your normal dietary intake has an affect on how the strings rust and age. How much acidity, oils, moisture and grime that comes from your body, hands and fingers. A good, reputable string cleaner/conditioner is recomended to preserve the life and tonality of the strings. To clean the gook from the neck, use a very very mild dishsoap detergent solution and a non abrasive scrubby or towel, ONLY DAMPEN, Do Not flood the NECK and FINGERBOARD with water or liquids of any kind. Remember this thing is mainly glued together and water, liquids or chemicals of any sort may cause glue points and joints to weaken or come loose altogether. Immediately wipe off any damp areas while removing the grunge.
Check the binding on both edges of the NECK where the FINGERBOARD meets. Check for cracks, pulling away or "bubbling out", big nicks or chunks missing. Carefully inspect the FINGERBOARD to see where it has worn the most. A good player will wear out a guitar evenly. Most older guitars that are still very playable may have grooves and dug out pits in the FINGERBOARD where most of the chords were played or notes fretted. Care must be taken on the amount of pressure applied when fretting a note, especially if the FINGERBOARD has worn down underneath slightly. You must use your ear and good judgement when determining the playability of a worn guitar.
TOP
The FRETS are metal strips pounded and sometimes glued into the NECK at precise intervals in order to produce the correct tones and pitches. Check the frets carefully to see that there are not any badly worn, flattened, grooved, loose, missing, splintered or bent frets. Every note on all the strings must be played in order to make sure that the frets are good and correct. Often, a fret will get worn down and somewhere along the NECK a note will "buzz" or become "dead." If this is the case, the FRETS may need work, or the NECK may need to be adjusted. The FRETS can sometimes be reshaped and filed back into an acceptable playability. This is sometimes reffered to as "crowned." This temporary fix may last as long as a few years, but just like hard disks in computers... as long as it is used, they will eventually wear out. With the guitar, this is due to the constant pressing and scraping of the steel strings against the Nickel or Steel FRETS.
TOP
The NECK is joined at the body, and usually glued into position at the point called "the neck joint." There are several acoustic guitars that have "bolt-on" NECKS. You will see a metal plate on the back of the guitar where the neck joins the body. There are advantages and disadvantages to both designs. Through experience you will come to understand the differences.
Check the NECK JOINT to make sure that is a solid perfect joint. In the case of a bolt-on neck, check to make sure that the retaining screws are tight and secure on the back. Make sure there aren't any screw heads stripped out from using butterknives instead of a proper screwdriver. check to make sure that there aren't any "shims" or strips placed under the bolt-on neck in an attempt to align it properly or hold it tight to the body.
On the standard GLUE ON NECK, carefully inspect the neck joint for any repairs, glue, flaws in finish or retouching. The NECK JOINT is a crucial area of the guitar. NEVER HOLD THE GUITAR AT THE END OF THE NECK WITH THE WEIGHT OF THE BODY STRESSING THE NECK JOINT. Always try to support the guitar when handling by holding it at the NECK JOINT and the BODY.
TOP
The SOUNDBOARD is the "front face" of the guitar BODY. It usually has a hole in it below the strings where the hand normally strums. Strumming in the middle of the body produces a more richer, fuller tone compared to strumming closer to the BRIDGE or closer to the NECK. The SOUNDBOARD is like the "speaker" of the guitar. As the vibrations from the string are transferred over the bridge to the SOUNDBOARD, the SOUNDBOARD vibrates the air and actually amplifies the sound intensity of the string. The better guitars use Spruce wood for the SOUNDBOARD because it is a strong wood that is not too dense, and vibrates well producing a warm rich tone. Most "run of the mill" affordably cheap acoustics use thin plys and or laminates. They usually sound fine for the "less than the connisseur."
TOP
The SOUNDBOARD is glued onto the curved body and hopefully BINDING is used as well for a good bond as well as a nice appearance. The better guitars will have double and triple binding. This can be viewed as "layers" or "lines" as the BINDINGS are sandwiched together.
Check to make sure that the binding or glueing is perfectly intact all the way around. Look for cracks and splits in the SOUNDBOARD. Inspect around the SOUNDHOLE and where the BRIDGE and TAILPIECE is mounted and glued. When too much tension is on the neck and body (tuned too high) serious problems can result. Not only can the NECK get "bowed or warped", but the SOUNDBOARD can "buldge up" under the tension behind the TAILPIECE and then the TAILPIECE will start to pull up and away from the SOUNDBOARD. I believe that this disheartens me the most. PLEASE KEEP YOUR GUITAR IN PROPER TUNE! Upon long extended periods when the guitar is not played, the strings should be loosened "several twists" down a few steps to help relieve the constant tension on an "idle neck." Scratches do not affect the tone or the playability.
TOP
In the middle of the SOUNDBOARD is the SOUNDHOLE. Not too much on this. The SOUNDHOLE allows the air to vibrate more freely while channeling some of the deeper tones that would otherwise be "lost" or "trapped" inside the body of the guitar. There is a big difference in beating on a solid block of wood, and beating on a hollow box... think about it. (okay, that's enough.)
TOP
Near the end of the BODY is the BRIDGE and/or TAILPIECE.
the strings pass over the BRIDGE which transfers the vibrations to the SOUNDBOARD. On the better BRIDGES and TAILPIECES, the BRIDGE will be adjustable, allowing for fine tuning and intonation setting. The bridge may have a separate adjustment for each string. Most average acoustic guitars do not have adjustable bridges, though it is very welcomed! Most acoustic guitars are built with the "specifications" predetermined, allowing for just basic adjustments, and for the most part, this is fine and normal.
On some TAILPIECES the strings are "fed through" a guide hole in the "SADDLE" where the ball end of the string lodges. Most acoustic guitars have "pegs" that hold the ball end of the string down into holes that are drilled through the TAILPIECE. The pegs should have a slot cut into them and should face the same direction as the string runs up the neck, providing a "little groove" for the string to rest in as it is being pushed and held in the hole. When changing strings, start at the TAILPIECE first, and then run the string up to the HEADSTOCK. Be careful not to push hard or jam the pegs into the holes. Snug should be plenty. (just like your oil filter.)
BUT HOW DO I GET THE PEGS OUT OF THE TAILPIECE WITHOUT USING THE PLIERS OR A SCREWDRIVER...(or your teeth!)
The "Guitar Players Secret Weapon" for this will be found on the end of one of those silly looking "Guitar String Crank", commonly called a "Sidewinder." they can be found at most stores for less than 2 bucks. If you look at the end of the "crank head", you will notice a little "cut out slot" made for slipping under the peg, giving you a little bit of leverage and protection against scratches and gouges. There,
now you're "clued in!"
TOP
Oh, yeah... one more thing... The PICK GUARD is supposed to shield the soundboard (front) of the guitar from the most offensive of players. It is not recommended that you inhale the fumes emmitted from this substance when lighting the guitar on fire.
TOP
CHORD GRID DIAGRAM:
Shown above is the common "grid" that is used for notation of guitar chords.
String number 6 (low E) is on the left side, and string number 1 (high E) is on the right side.This is what the guitar would look like if you were to hold the neck FACING YOU. (right hand tuning) This is exactly inverse for left handed guitarist and guitars.
The numbers inside the little circles represent what FINGERS you are to use when forming the chord.
There may be numbers to the left or right of the grid which represent what FRET POSITION the chord STARTS on. (or wherever it may be notated.)
The "X" represents strings that are NOT to be played.
The "O" represents a string that is to be played open. (unfretted)
More advanced chords require a finger to cover notes on more than one string. Guitar GRIDS are commonly found above the staves in written sheet music and are a great way to learn many different chords and possibilities. I recommend getting a Chord Book of sorts to have for practice and reference.All chords on this site may be downloaded for off-line viewing as well as the video cyber lessons!
TOP
THE HAND:
On a standard acoustic guitar that is set up and strung for right handed playing, the LEFT HAND is used to fret the notes and chords played on the guitar, while the RIGHT HAND is used for strumming and plucking (and whatever).
The INDEX FINGER is NUMBER ONE
The MIDDLE FINGER is NUMBER TWO
The RING FINGER is NUMBER THREE
The PINKY FINGER is NUMBER FOUR
Isn't it funny, that as a society, we still do not have "good names" distincly identifying each finger properly with out using scientific or medical terminology? ("pinky finger?")... Anyway,The thumb is not normally used in fretting. It's job is to be the "fulcrum" to support the hand positions when the fingers are held and pressed against the neck. The thumb will shift positions for each chord, sometimes slightly, sometimes greatly. Not very often is the thumb "wrapped" around the neck, more often playing a chord on a comfortable neck in a comfortable position, the web between the thumb and the first finger is used with the thumb sticking up. The more advanced chords will use the pad of the thumb to help "pinch" and hold the chord. All this "thumb action" will come in good time with little experience. Be Patient, get through the hot burning callouses first!
There is a lot to be said about "Carpal Tunnel Syndrome" which is a condition that develops from intense repeated actions commonly found in typist and professional secretaries. This can be very painful and quite dibilitating, and the bummer part about it is that the doctors are still unskilled at fixing or curing the problem short of risky surgey involving stuff like cutting nerves and/or tendons and re-attaching them at different points. Weird, huh?... so be cool now that you are enlightened. I think the safest bet to building up speed, power and endurance on the fingerboard is to PLAY THE NOTES ON THE FINGERBOARD as opposed to all the trick little finger and wrist muscle exercising devices out there. Not only will this be all the exercise you will need, but you will be "Programming" your hand, wrist and fingers to your brain and coordination reflexes and dexterity. Once again, think about it... If you wanna get good at the guitar, practice the guitar... If you wanna get good a squeezing a ball of putty, well... there you have it.... although, I admit, "it feels good."
One more thing is, it might be a good idea to wash and dry your hands before playing your guitar for all the obvious reasons. It is also a good habit to wipe off the strings after you have finished playing.
TOP
GUITAR TABLATURE:
TAB - picture it...
The above diagram represents the neck of the guitar sideways with the big 6th string (low E) on the bottom and the thin 1st string (high E) on the top. By the way, the strings NOTES are as follows from high to low in pitch:
1st string - E (high) - above "middle C"
2nd string - B - below "middle C"
3rd string - G - below "middle C"
4th string - D - below "middle C"
5th string - A
6th string - E (low)
The numbers on the TABLATURE GRID represent the FRET NUMBER that is to be played ON THAT STRING.The example on the left side of the TAB GRID is a short scale in the key of "A". It starts on the 5th fret on the Sixth string... then the 7th. Next it goes up a string to the 4th fret on the 5th string...the 5th, the 7th, and so on... These notes are to be played in a succesion.
The right side of the TAB GRID shows a "C CHORD". Notice that all of the notes are "stacked up." This means they are all to be played all at once, and not in succesion. The "O" represents an "open" string is to be played.
As in standard music notation, there are many different symbols to represent notes, technique, and how the guitar is to be played in TAB as well. These will become more and more familiar as you progress. There is not a lot of in-depth coverage of TAB in VIDEO GUITAR LESSONS, however, there are links to great guitar sites where the advanced student can go to learn more about TABLATURE or "TAB" as it is reffered to.
Tab has not been around a long time compared to conventional musical instruments and seemed to gain it's popularity in the 1980's. It might make one wonder what TAB for a piano or clarinet might look like.... TAB - picture it...
Not lots of guitar players know as much as you might think they do... they just pick up the guitar and start whacking away, and usually end up doing pretty good... I mean, after all, not only is america in love with the guitar, but it falls into the catagory of "Art".. which is to be experienced and not measured. I have met plenty of people who do not have a so-called "Musical Bone" in their body, but end up being rather proficient and accomplished guitarist through diligence and patience, hard work and devotion. Just because you are not Jimi Hendrix reincarnated does not mean playing the guitar on any level can't fill your life with all kinds of enjoyments. It will.And likewise, having the impressive ability to whip off 64th notes at a blaring tempo does not make one a good musician.
You will need the "REAL PLAYER" to experience the "one on one" VIDEO CYBER LESSONS.The REAL PLAYER is a FREE plug in for your Web Browser and it allows for immediate real time audio & video streaming through the Internet. No longer do you have to wait for a file to download and take up precious space on your hard drive in order to view it. With the REAL PLAYER you will get it right away in about 60 seconds or faster! It takes about 5 minutes to download and completely self installs in 45 seconds!
Click the link and follow the directions on their website to get the latest updated version of the FREE REAL PLAYER.
TOP
Yes, in case you are wondering... That IS my hand and 1982 Gibson Les Paul Custom "Spotlight Special" pictured above, as well as every graphic and every word. Thanks alot, just what the world needs... another guitar player...
TOP